Best Mezcals of 1970

Start with the agave. Espadín is the most widely planted agave and usually the most approachable and affordable place to start. Wild agaves such as Tobalá, Tepeztate and Madrecuixe take far longer to mature and give more intense, herbal or floral bottles — with prices to match.

Look for the region. Oaxaca produces most of the mezcal you'll find, but Durango, Michoacán, Puebla, San Luis Potosí and Guerrero all have distinct styles. The state and town on the label tell you a lot about what's in the glass.

Read the production details. Traditional mezcal is roasted in an earthen pit, crushed with a tahona, fermented in open wood and distilled in copper or clay. Clay-pot distillation in particular gives a softer, rounder texture.

Check the ABV. Most well-made mezcal is bottled between 45% and 50%, where the aromatics stay intact. Bottles diluted to 40% often taste thinner.